Wednesday, February 29, 2012

It's Wednesday

Don't forget about fried chicken and pinot for $15 tonight at the bar tonight.

Chef, Berto, and myself have been brainstorming ideas for a new menu that will begin after the renovations at the restaurant from March 19th-21st. Duck legs, cassoulet, black cod, squab, pork belly. What do you guys want to eat?

Starting sometime in the next week or two we will be offering charcuterie, cheeses, and house pate's and terrines using only quality products, and avoiding nitrites. We had some beautiful serving boards made, and we're excited to offer the highest quality meat and cheeses available.

We hope to see you at the bar tonight.



Best,

Jarrett

Monday, February 27, 2012

Keep your day job.

Please check out this simple video of Chef Sean Brock.

Don't drink and make biscuits late in the evening. It's terrible to clean the next afternoon.


The birth of Terrapin's granola. Available for purchase at the restaurant before the market opens again.




Foie with pink lady apples, huckleberries, and sauce borolo.


Every Monday is staff appreciation/investigative cooking day. Bruce of Sam Rust seafood was kind enough to wake me up this morning to let me know that there were no crawfish available, but that I should look into these Florida stone crabs.



Shout out to Tim.


We're talking about exploring brunch. I hope everyone had a wonderful weekend.

Best,

Jarrett

Sunday, February 26, 2012

It's a brand new crescent moon.

"I can't figure out if it's the end or beginning, but the train's put its brakes on. The whistle is screaming Terrapin."

A cook will play when you're sleeping, and we will go to work when you play. We accept this in our professional lives. The mutual respect between cooks is placed on the fact that we work our professional hours while our loved ones wonder what the hell we're up to. We sacrifice a lot in our personal lives to chase an ever evolving technique based on what we strive to provide to others everyday. It's simply an emotional attachment to support sustainable and responsible agricultural practices. I thank the ingredients everyday knowing someone cared for it. I thank the cooks around me for taking the time to think about their shallots.

A thanks to our farmers and gathering folks.




Dave and Dee's oyster mushrooms.


Organic Maitake


Cooked mix.


Organic Fennel from Mattawoman Creek Farms


Organic Arugula


Organic Purple Kale


Thanks to Billy Page for the images. Thanks to the staff for the weekend.

Best,

Jarrett

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Colonel Terrapin

The Colonel is quoted as saying, "There's no reason to be the richest man in the cemetery. You can't do any business from there."

There are so many reasons to avoid the fast food industry. The goal of our kitchen is to help the slow food movement, avoiding all corn syrups and avoiding preservatives in our staples and cooking mediums such as TBHQ (
tertiary butylhydroquinone) in our frying oil and salt in our butter. Salt is a preservative in itself, so salted butter is therefore not nearly as fresh as unsalted butter. We mix our own cooking oil using olive oil and grapeseed oil, therefore increasing our smoking points while retaining the flavor of the oil itself.

But even with all the hatred I carry for fast food operations who force our agricultural systems to feed corn to cows, and force chickens to grow at an exponential force, the Colonel was actually good for something in the end.

Please check out www.cookingissues.com for an expansive explanation of food sciences.

CVap Ovens

"CVap technology was originally developed for Kentucky Fried Chicken. Colonel Sanders needed something that would hold his chicken in perfect condition; he asked his friend and fryer guru, Winston L. Shelton, for help. In response, Shelton invented CVap (Controlled Vapor) technology. CVap ovens are basically food holding cabinets with a bain marie in the bottom. Both the oven cavity and the bain marie are heated and temperature controlled. The cook can control the humidity inside the oven by adjusting the difference in temperature between the bain marie and the oven air. The core temperature of the food will not rise above the temperature of the bain marie. The surface texture of the food is controlled by the humidity of the oven air. You set the temperature of the oven air much higher than the water for crispy foods, like fried chicken, and you set it the same temperature for low temp cooking. For a detailed discussion of why the CVap works, see here.

CVaps come in many shapes and sizes, from very large down to single drawers like this one.

The inside of a CVap.

The Cvap comes in a range of sizes, is much cheaper than a combi, doesn’t require a lot of power, doesn’t require a water supply or a drain, and is extremely easy to retrofit. Many restaurants in New York City bought CVaps immediately after the Health Department instituted HAACP control for sous-vide cooking. It is difficult to get a HAACP plan approved for sous-vide fish, and it is impossible to get one approved for fish below pasteurization temperatures (which is where we usually want to cook it). Since the possibilities of low temperature fish attracted many chefs to low temperature cooking in the first place, many took up the CVap. It was basically unheard of in chef circles prior to the health department crack down. The disadvantage of the CVap: it can start sucking wind if overloaded, or if the door is frequently opened and closed."

I've never worked with one of these machines before, but I have been fortunate enough to eat at Mccrady's in which these things are used to hold proteins at an alarmingly consistent rate. So in the end, without the expansion of our Colonel's fast food chains, chef's worldwide would have missed out on a groundbreaking kitchen tool that is rapidly spreading among the countries best kitchens.


The whole point of the rant was to remind everyone that we are serving our fried chicken and a glass of pinot every Wednesday night at the bar for $15.


Deconstructed Oysters Rockefeller



Duck, duck, goose.



Porcini pancakes, wild and local mushrooms, truffle butter.


Shout out to Jorge. We have the hardest working dishwashers that I've been fortunate enough to work with.


Safety first.



Enjoy the weather while it's here,

Jarrett

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Support your local farmers.

Dan Barber was once quoted, "It's not so much the workings of a great chef, but of a great farmer."

The kitchen staff at Terrapin has created this blog to allow individuals to see exactly what we do back there. We would like to personally thank Mattawoman Creek Farms, and Dave and Dee for providing us with the ingredients to create the foundations for pure, and wholesome food.

Spring is just around the corner, and we'll continue to provide a look into the creative aspect of our kitchen. I'll introduce you to the staff that I am so very fortunate to work with everyday. If you're lucky, we'll share a recipe every now and then. Please feel free to ask any questions along the way.

Cody and I began to experiment with spherification using juiced queen olives, olive brine, agar, and gelatin. Once the mixture was prepared, it was dropped into frozen grape seed oil from a squeeze bottle set in an ice bath.





They became small caviar that tasted like pure olive, but they were gelled completely so there was no pop to them.


Pickled mustard seeds, and olive caviar.


The beginning of pickled Brussels sprouts.


Best,

Jarrett